white yacht on pier near town during daytime
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Visiting Portofino in December

Visiting Portofino in December

Weather in December: Average high 7.9°C, 65mm rainfall.

# Portofino in December: Pretty, Quiet, and a Bit Damp

Look, Portofino in December is a completely different animal from the Instagram version you’ve been saving to your travel folder. That’s not necessarily bad news, but you should know what you’re walking into.

The temperature sits around 8°C, which feels colder than it sounds once the sea wind picks up and you’re standing on the harbour front realising your jacket isn’t quite doing the job. Pack warmer than you think you need to. The 65mm of rainfall spread across the month means you’ll almost certainly catch at least one grey, drizzly day, probably more. The light goes flat, the famous pastel houses look a little washed out, and the Ligurian Sea turns a moody slate grey rather than that impossible turquoise. Honestly though? There’s something genuinely atmospheric about it when it rains.

The crowds are essentially gone. The people wandering around in December are mostly Italian day-trippers from Genoa and the surrounding area, a few determined Northern European visitors, and absolutely zero superyachts. You can actually stand on the harbour and take a photo without twelve people walking through it. The village is tiny and becomes very obviously a real place rather than a theme park.

What’s open is the real question. Some restaurants close entirely, others operate reduced hours or weekends only. The famous Camogli and Santa Margherita Ligure nearby are more reliable for finding a decent lunch than Portofino village itself. Always check before you make the trip specifically for a meal.

Is it worth it? For photographers, couples wanting somewhere genuinely quiet and dramatic, or anyone who actively dislikes tourist crowds, yes, genuinely. For someone expecting summer Mediterranean vibes, no, you’ll be disappointed and cold.

**One practical tip:** Don’t drive to Portofino itself. The road is narrow and parking is expensive and restricted. Park in Santa Margherita Ligure and take the boat or bus. This is true in summer too, but in December the boat service runs less frequently, so check the schedule before you leave.

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