Alexandria, Egypt: Complete Travel Guide
| Country | Egypt |
| Region | Alexandria Governorate |
| Type | City |
| Best months | March, April, May, October, November |
| Crowd level | Moderate |
| Budget | Budget |
| Flight (LON) | 4h 45m |
Alexandria rewards the traveller who arrives without expecting Cairo. That sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people treat it as a day trip afterthought and leave wondering what the fuss was about. Give it two or three nights and something shifts. The Mediterranean light flattens everything into a kind of washed-out beauty, the sea air carries salt and diesel in equal measure, and the city starts to reveal a layered, melancholy character that no other Egyptian city quite matches.
Honestly, modern Alexandria is a little rough around the edges. The glory days of Cleopatra and Forster’s novels exist mostly in the imagination now. Streets are chaotic, some historic sites are scruffier than photographs suggest, and the Greco-Roman Museum, though genuinely fascinating for anyone serious about antiquity, has an underfunded, slightly dusty atmosphere that’s either charming or disappointing depending on your temperament. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina, however, is the real surprise — a genuinely world-class piece of architecture sitting right on the harbour, with thoughtful exhibitions and an interior that makes you believe in institutions again. Go on a weekday morning before the school groups arrive.
Qaitbay Citadel is non-negotiable. Built on the exact site of the ancient Lighthouse, it sits where the sea crashes against the sea wall with theatrical force, and the views back across the Eastern Harbour are worth every pound of the entrance fee. Spend late afternoon here, then walk west along the Corniche as the sun drops. This promenade is where Alexandria actually lives — families eating corn on the cob, teenagers on bicycles, old men watching the water with the patience of people who’ve been watching water their whole lives.
Stay in the Corniche or Raml Station area for easy access to everything. Montazah Palace gardens to the east are pleasant for a half-morning but don’t rearrange your itinerary for them.
The thing most tourists miss is the food culture. The city’s Greek and Mediterranean past lingers in its seafood restaurants — particularly in Anfushi near the Eastern Harbour — where you choose your fish by pointing at it and eat it grilled simply with bread and salad. This is not a tourist performance. It’s just lunch.
Alexandria suits history lovers, architecture enthusiasts, slow travellers comfortable with imperfection, and anyone who finds Cairo’s intensity genuinely exhausting. Come in April or November. Stay longer than you planned.
Plan Your Trip
- Hotels: Search accommodation in Alexandria on Booking.com
- Tours & Activities: Browse Alexandria experiences on GetYourGuide
- Day Trips: Find Alexandria tours on Viator
